Bridge

Fitting the bridge I thought would be a tricky job with all the fine alignments and accurate fixing... Turns out it was a bit of a breeze and certainly not worthy of a photograph (you can only have so many pictures of glue drying)
The general rule of thumb is that firstly the bridge should be on the center line with the neck - it would be very irritating to have the strings running off the edge of the neck (not that my playing would really notice it as the most obvious out of alignment would be down the dusty end, and i rarely get down there) So to ensure all is on line its simply a case of running a straight edge down either side of the neck and splitting the difference. I used a bit of masking tape on the sound board so that i didn't have to put pencil marks on the bare wood.
As for the forward and aft positioning of the bridge, this again was simpler than I imagined. The good Mr Colter had written about this positioning in his instructions (the ones we received at the symposium) and explained that the saddle position is made at the same distance from the 12th fret as is the 12th fret to the nut. As simple as that! To account for the degree of stretch (and subsequent increase in pitch) the strings get while playing, John recommends an additional 2-3mm on this position. I added 3 mm, but to be honest I don't think anyone will hear the difference in my playing (though maybe it would noticable if Lyle Ritz was playing)

I glued the bridge down with a dob of wood PVA. Once again I was a bit worried about the strength of the joint and would have normally wanted to include some mechanical fixings too in the form of screws or dowels. Certainly some uke bridges use screws, but many don't, so I put my faith in the power of evostick wood glue and left it at that